FAQ

Spring flowering bulbs

What should I do after tulips fade in spring? What about daffodils?

After tulip flowers have faded, "dead-head" them by clipping off the faded blooms so that they won't go to seed. Narcissi (daffodils) do not require dead-heading, just leave as is. The main requirement for bulb flowers in the post-bloom period is to leave the leaves alone so the plant can put its energy into "recharging" its bulb for next spring's performance. This "energy charge" is gained through photosynthesis as the plant uses the sun's energy to turn basic elements such as oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium into food. This food is stored in the bulb's "scales," the white fleshy part of the bulb, for use next spring. It is necessary to leave the green foliage exposed to the sun until it turns brown or six weeks have elapsed since blooming. Fight the urge to trim back or constrain the leaves during their die-back phase after looming. Don't bunch, tie, braid or cut bulb plant leaves during this period. Dealing with the fading foliage is basically one of those things that lovers of spring bulbs must deal with. The only management tip is camouflage. Try interplanting bulbs with annuals or perennials, or planting them strategically nearby so that the latter mask the declining bulb foliage as best as possible. As a planting strategy, plant clumps of bulbs instead of full beds. This way you will have a lovely spring show, and plenty of room to plant camouflaging companions. Avoid fertilizing the annuals planted in the same bed until the bulbs have died back. Bulbs in spring, if they're fertilized at all, should only get a dose of fast-release nitrogen about six weeks before flowering (normally bulbs want a low nitrogen mix, but in spring it is the green-encouraging nitrogen that is called for). Fertilizing bulbs too close to flowering time, when the bulbs can't metabolize the food, only encourages fusarium and other nasty things.

Do you recommend lifting tulips after bloom & replanting in fall to improve 2nd year blooming?

No, this old-fashioned method is difficult, yields mediocre results and is generally a lot of bother. It is better to choose tulips from the get-go that are considered good at "coming back" for repeat performance the next season. Botanical or species varieties and their hybridized strains are generally excellent garden performers and sometimes will even naturalize. Among hybrids, try: the red 'Charles', the pink-red 'Christmas Marvel', and the red 'Couleur Cardinal'. Triumph tulips such as the pink 'Don Quichotte', and lily-flowered 'Aladdin' and 'Ballade' should be good for more than one season. Others offering potential for a second season of color include tall Darwin hybrids such as yellow 'Golden Parade', red 'Oxford', and orange-red 'Hollands Glorie'. When "perennializing" or naturalizing tulips, plant them about eight inches deep and choose a well-drained spot in the yard.

Is it better to plant bulbs earlier or later in the fall?

Planting times vary, depending upon your climate zone, but as a general rule, earlier is better. Bulbs need to establish strong root systems, before the frosts of winter set in and the bulbs enter a new cycle in preparation for spring blooming. Remember to plant bulbs in an area that drains well and water newly planted bulbs to help those roots get going!

I've been told that the bigger the tulip bulb, the better the flower. Is this true?

Not entirely. It is true, however, that, as a general rule, the bigger the tulip bulb the bigger the flower. But bigger does not necessarily mean better. The bulbs of a species tulip such as tulipa tarda for example would appear quite tiny beside, say, a large Darwin hybrid bulb such as "Apeldoorn." but these small species tulips are some of the most delicate and lovely bulb flowers you can grow. They're quite hardy as well. Tulip bulbs are sold by caliber or size. Within any particular type or variety of tulip, the larger bulbs will fetch a higher price than the smaller ones. For big showy displays, the larger caliber bulbs are certainly worth the price. However, some excellent bargains are to be had by buying lots of smaller caliber bulbs for brightening up a marginal spot in the spring yard.

Do tulips prefer a sunny or a shady spot in the yard?

Tulips are sun as well as shade lovers. But when planting your tulips this fall, don't be fooled by the patterns of sun and shade in the fall garden! Remember that come spring, when tulips bloom, all the deciduous, non-evergreen trees in your yard will be beautifully leafless. There's a lot of sun in a spring garden!

What are 'botanical' or 'species' tulips?

Species tulips refers to those varieties which have not been bred or hybridized and remain essentially as they are found in nature. Botanical tulips are hybrids, but hybrids which remain very close to the original species. Neither of these terms refers to "wild" tulips. All tulips sold by the dutch, including the species and botanical tulips, are actually propagated and grown in Holland. Species and botanical tulips are generally smaller than other tulips. They are especially prized for growing in rock gardens.

Which tulips are the most famous?

The most popular tulips of all are the red ones such as “Apeldoorn” and “Oxford”. These cultivars have been the front-runners for years and years – every shop always has red tulips for sale. But the most famous tulip by far has to be the “black” tulip, “Queen of Night”. Although this cultivar is not a true black – the color is actually a very deep purple – it’s very close resemblance to black creates a magical effect. After centuries of breeding efforts to develop a truly black tulip, the Dutch still consider this 1944 introduction the blackest yet.

The Fritillaria imperialis bulbs i bought have a really bad smell. Is there something wrong with them?

No, this is a natural characteristic of the bulbs and flowers of Fritillaria imperialis. (a dutch nickname for the Crown Imperial is “stink lily”). But a useful side effect is that the skunky, old gym sock smell of Fritillaria imperialis keeps moles out of your garden.

What is the difference between a daffodil and a narcissus?

The simple answer is: none. Narcissus is the Latin or botanical name for all daffodils, just as Ilex is for hollies. Daffodil is the common name for all members of the genus Narcissus, and its use is recommended by the American Daffodil Society at all times other than in scientific writing.

Can you plant bulbs in any kind of garden and in every type of soil?

Bulbs can be planted in any garden and/or every type of soil that drains well. It's a Dutch saying that "bulbs don't like wet feet." They'll rot in soggy soil. Don't plant bulbs where water collects or puddles, at the base of hills, in hollows or low spots or under drain spouts. There are a few exceptions. These bulbs actually thrive in wettish soil: e chequered fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris), camassia and leucojum. And, although heavy river clay makes it difficult to dig planting holes for tulips and narcissi, they will thrive in this type of soil.

Can I plant bulbs among the roots of perennials and shrubs?

Bulbs will thrive among the roots of perennials and shrubs. Bulbous plants emerge early, at a time when perennials and shrubs are not yet in leaf. This means that the bulbs will have plenty of light and space to create a lovely flowering display. Even so, it is sometimes more difficult to get the bulbs into the soil. The soil is often hard, and the roots can make digging the holes for the bulbs difficult. For these reasons, make the planting holes as small as you can and plant each bulb separately in its own little hole. To make things easier, you could try using a special bulb planter; this tool will also minimize the damage to the roots of the perennials and shrubs.

Which bulbs smell bad?

Fritillaria imperialis and the allium species are the bulbs with the strongest odours. Chives (a. Schoenoprasum), ramson (a. Ursinum), onion sets (a. Cepa), shallots (a. Ascalanicum) and garlic (a. Sativum) all belong to the allium family. The scent of other members of this family is similar as well. The strong smell of Fritillaria imperialis keeps moles out of your garden.

How can I keep mice and voles out of the garden?

Mice and voles are found everywhere, so it’s difficult to prevent them from entering your garden. The best ways to discourage them, however, is to keep debris to a minimum and clean up around your bird feeders. Why set out a luncheon buffet for the pesky critters! Another tip: don't lay down mulch too early in fall - this merely creates a warm welcome home for little animals. The role of mulch is to keep cold soil consistently cold to minimize frost heaves while moderating extremes in cold temperatures. Lay down mulch after winter frosts have cooled soil down - not while it's still warm.

Why are my daffodils blooming so much later this year than they did the first?

Truth is sometimes stranger than fiction. Established perennial or naturalized bulbs tend to bloom about two weeks earlier in subsequent years than they did their first year. This is important to know when you are making bulb selections for “Color Combos” for coordinated spring blooming, especially if you’re adding bulbs to an existing planting. You don’t want to base future EBTs (estimated bloom times) on bulbs’ first year performances – or you’ll find your combinations out of sync down the road.

Do bulbs need to be planted immediately after purchase?

n general, the best place for flower bulbs is tucked in the soil of a well-drained, well-prepared garden bed. But if planting must be put off for practical reasons, then take care to store the bulbs in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Excess heat and moisture can harm bulbs. Bulbs stored under proper conditions for a few weeks, but planted at least six weeks before the ground freezes hard, can practically be guaranteed to come up in spring. Of course, not all bulbs are created equal. Certain specialty bulbs have a tendency to dry out if left unplanted, thus should be purchased early in the season and planted right away. This applies to to Colchicum and snowdrops (Galanthus), as well as Erythronium (dog’s-tooth violet), Corydalis, Fritillaria and the rhizome-forming anemones such as Anemone nemorosa and A. ranunculoides.

Are there any flower bulbs that I can plant in fall that will flower in fall?

Yes! Try these bulbs for bloom this fall and in future fall seasons: Colchicum e.g. byzantinum or 'Lilac Wonder' Autumn-flowering Crocus e.g. Crocus zonatus, Crocus sativus Cyclamen coum (flowers in winter from December to March) in more temperate zones. Cyclamen hederifolium

What's naturalizing about?

Bulbs indicated as naturalizing bulbs are those most likely to come up and flower again in future years. Whether this will be successful or not depends mostly on the composition of the soil, its PH level, and the drainage -- and whether you put sprinklers there over the summer (not good for bulbs which like a dry summer). After bloom in spring, it is essential to refrain from trimming bulb foliage immediately after flowering but wait a month or two to allow them to die back completely to allow the plant to recharge itself with energy for next year's bloom.

Which bulbs are best to use in the rock garden?

The majority of the commonly available bulbs, corms and tubers grow into plants that are too large for the rock garden. Some small specialty bulbs, however, are just perfect for rock gardens. Examples are chionodoxa luciliae “alba”, anemone nemorosa, winter aconite (eranthis hyemalis), small-flowering crocuses such as crocus sieberi subsp. Sublimis ‘tricolor”, fritillaria michailovskyi, narcissus bulbocodium and tulipa urumiensis.

Can you describe the different types of paperwhites?

There's excitement in paperwhites! Now you can pick and choose the attributes you like best from a range of differnt varieties. Buy paperwhites in fall and early winter - pot them up in batches to enjoy all season. 'Ziva' - pure white, strong musky fragrance, earliest & easiest to bloom, most widely available 'Ariel' - large white flowers, lovely mild fragrance 'Galilee' - pure white, moderate musky fragrance 'Chinese Sacred Lily' - white with orange cup, not as floriforous, but delicious fragrance 'Grand soleil d'or' - yellow with orange cup, delicate sweet fragrance 'Omri' (aka 'Israel') - creme colour, sulphur yellow cup, delicate musky fragrance 'Inbal'- pure white, delicate fragrance 'Nir' - white, early bloomer, moderate fragrance

What is a jonquil?

n the southeastern U.S., all yellow daffodils have traditionally been referred to as jonquils. However, according to the official book of daffodils, the International Registry and Daffodil List, maintained by Great Britain’s Royal Horticultural Society, only certain daffs can truly be called jonquils. These have several yellow flowers, strong fragrance, and rounded foliage, as defined under Division 7 and Division 10 in the official registry. However, should a southern gardener ask to show you his or her jonquils, it is recommended that you allow good manners to triumph over erudition. Admire the flowers and enjoy the sweet tea.

Why don’t flower bulbs in the ground freeze in the winter?

Bulbs are designed by nature to withstand cold winter temperatures. Indeed they rely on winter’s cold to trigger the biochemical process necessary to bring the bulb to flower in spring. While winter soil may actually freeze to depths beyond which the bulbs are planted, soil temperature will rarely fall below 29° F or 30° F (-1°C). At these just-below-freezing temperatures, water in the cells of the bulb may freeze but the cells will not be harmed. Also, as is true for many hardy plants, cold temperatures trigger starches in bulbs to break down into glucose and other small molecules. This simple sugar or glucose, interacting with other small molecules, acts in much the same way as salt on a winter sidewalk. The sugar in the bulb, like the salt on the sidewalk, lowers the temperature at which water freezes. This fortunate chemistry helps to keep bulbs safe and snug in their winter beds. Other factors that help keep soil temperatures within tolerable limits include an insulating snow cover or a nice layer of mulch over the bulb bed once the ground temperatures have dropped.

When is the best time to plant tulips, daffodils and most other bulbs in fall?

In most areas, the “window” of time for planting bulbs in fall is fairly wide. Here is a practical way to plan: Time to start planting bulbs: once night-time temperatures drop into the low 50s F or 40s F (4 to 10 C) for two weeks. Time to finish up: once hard frosts are coming. Generally bulbs root best in the period six weeks or more prior to the ground freezing.After planting bulbs: water the site well. Typically fall rains will take over this task for the balance of the season. For more information on fall planting see US Bulb Planting Regions.

What if it’s already early winter and I still haven’t planted my bulbs?

When best plans fail and you still haven’t planted your bulbs by early winter, the answer is – just plant the bulbs as soon as you can, even if you have to chip into the ground. Bulbs are not dormant, they’re alive – and they won’t last much longer if left unplanted. If you can get them into the ground (either in pots or in the garden), chances are good that they’ll grow. If you don’t plant them soon, you may as well toss them out. Bulbs that get less than 10 to 14 weeks (depending on their type) of sustained cold temperatures still come up but may be shorter than usual. If they are types or varieties that perennialize or naturalize, they’ll come back normally in future years if their foliage is left to die back after bloom in spring. BTW: if you know in advance you won’t be able to plant until very late, throw small tarps or leaf piles over proposed planting areas to keep the soil warm and workable until you are ready to dig. Expert gardeners have one more late season trick up their sleeve: they pot up unplanted bulbs for indoor forcing, or as container plants. With containers, you have the advantage of being able to control the initial soil temperature by adding your own soil. Choose the light potting soil mixes sold at all garden retailers. Move small containers to an unheated garage or other cool, yet protected place. In spring, use the potted bulbs as accent plants or bring them indoors. Remember these are last ditch measures. Once the time for fall planting has arrived in your area, the sooner bulbs are safely in the ground, the better.

How deep do I plant flower bulbs?

Big bulbs including daffodils, tulips and hyacinths get planted 8 inches (20 cm) deep, small bulbs such as grape hyacinths, crocus and others are planted five inches (13 cm) deep. Plant in well-drained soil, cover up, water well and wait for spring. It’s as simple as that. Fall is the time to plant spring-blooming bulbs and it could hardly be easier.

I'm sick of deer and squirrels destroying my garden. Any tips?

Since we can't get rid of them, here's the real question: which spring-bloomers can I plant this fall and hope to enjoy next spring? Colorful, delectable-looking tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, alliums, grape hyacinths and other spring-flowering bulbs are prized in spring by people everywhere. But, animals, too, find some bulbs appealing. While animals don’t much care what flowers look like, some indeed find bulbs and bulb flowers delectable-tasting. In particular, troublesome deer, squirrels, voles and groundhogs will thank you for planting tulips or crocuses. Many other bulbs, such as daffodil and alliums, hold no appeal to furry foragers and are generally shunned because of their bitter taste. If animal pests are a problem in your area, a first line of defense is to plant pest-resistant plant material in exposed garden beds or wide open spaces and put more vulnerable bulbs such as tulips and crocuses in protected areas, say by the front door or in fenced areas. Potting up and protecting these tastier bulbs is another option. Second line defenses include pest-proofing or -repellants such as netting, screening, dogs, sprays and other techniques. Of course, if deer are truly starving, they’ll eat just about anything, including the bark off trees! Still, planting the less tasty bulbs in exposed sites will greatly improve a garden’s overall survivability in problem areas. See www.bulb.com lists of pest-resistant bulbs under: Deer Squirrels & Other Pest.

If bulbs sprout early during a mid-winter thaw, do I need to protect them? Will the next freeze kill the flowers?

If bulbs in the garden sprout during a mid-winter thaw, will the next cold snap damage the flowers? Probably not. Healthy, spring-flowering bulbs that have sprouted prematurely are pre-programmed by nature to shrug off the return of extreme cold and even snow. In a hard frost, the buds may be blighted, or the tips of the leaves may get frost burn, but in almost every case they will flower. Smaller bulbs, such as snowdrops, crocuses, Eranthis, winter aconite, and mini-narcissi are actually meant to bloom early, often peeking through the snow.

How long is "winter" to a bulb (when forcing)?

How many weeks of cold treatment do home-forced potted bulbs need to fool them into thinking winter’s over? Most potted forced bulbs need 12 to 16 weeks at temperatures of 38°F to 48°F (by comparison the recommended temperature for a refrigerator is between 34° and 40° F). When ready, potted bulbs should be brought into the warmth to begin the blooming process, which takes a few more weeks on average.

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